Je ne résiste pas à partager les premières photos de ma nouvelle robe 1780s. Robe et jupe sont en coton imprimé façon indienne - ce tissu à attendu plus de 10 ans dans mes placards, j'en avait fait un gros stock en me disant que j'en ferai une robe à l'anglaise un jour. Entre-temps les milieux anglophones appellent plutôt ce genre de robe une "italian gown" 😅 Comme j'étais en mode rush j'ai utilisé des patrons tout faits plutôt que de faire les miens. Par-dessus le corps baleiné que je vous ai déjà montré j'ai fait la robe Aidah de @scrooppatterns et @virgilsfinegoods (et le patron du faux-cul dessous vient du même endroit). La coiffe a été faite en suivant le livre sur le costume 18ème de American Duchess (il y a une erreur ur le patron d'ailleurs, il faut consulter l'erratum sur leur site !). J'aurais aimé ajouter des mitaines en taffetas noir mais le temps m'a manqué, ce sera pour la prochaine sortie de cette tenue ! #costumiere #costumehistorique #rococofashion #1780s #aidahgown Photos @horsemel Organisation de la sortie @les_pomponnees

Oh my GOSH! Today has been one heck of a day. Mental AND Emotionally. But your girl held it together, and will keep on pushing. Especially when there is no other option, but to take it day by day, and finish prepping for my trip to France. (Cue screaming!!!). Thanks to my friend @thimbleraven who gifted me a gorgeous green taffeta gown, it was the #aidahgown by @scrooppatterns . I still have one full ensemble that I want to make for my self, which will be the #Amalia Jacket, and a petticoat, and a couple of minor things like a new shift and such. I cannot tell you how excited I am. And when I say that I absolutely NEED this. I mean it!!! | I still have my #gofundme, and ways to donate up. As well as my print store and #patreon. I also (well I FINALLY! 🙃) got around to creating a FB page for my costuming/shenanigans. If you could give me a follow there (I understand if you don't, with the whole meta thing), all the virtual hugs to you! Just look up: The Marisa Zimmerman on FB, and it should come up. I'll also link it in my link tree. Along with the sites to donate/purchase my art to help me offset the costs of this trip and to have extra money while there. Being a disabled photographer is not as lucrative as some folks make it out to be 😅 | #countdowntofrance #artist #residency #historicalcostumer #historicalcostuming

Throwback to the incredibly beautiful View A Aidah Gown Mem @starandscissor made as a pattern tester. Her use of this floral striped fabric is just SPECTACULAR! The V the stripes form at the front! The interplay between the bias front stripes, the horizontal sleeve stripes and the vertical back stripes! The way the flowers spiral out at the centre of the back! The way the stripes work with the skirt pleating! It’s all perfection ❤️❤️❤️ Many thanks for your help testing Mem! Gorgeous photos by @aladyofquality #scrooppatterns #aidahgown #virgilsfinegoods #historicalsewingpatterns #18thcenturycostuming #bestpatterntestersever #italiangown #italiangownpattern #historicalsewing #historicalsewingpatterns #18thcenturysewingpatterns #18thcenturycostuming

Ok, I *think* I have this installation figured out. Wish me luck as I try too so this Thing. As The Gentleman Pirate himself said, "Sewing sounds dangerous." It is, sir. It certainly is. (But lookit that seam lineup😉) #breakuprobeanglaise #scrooppatterns #aidahgown #ofmd #crownchampionshipsofcosplay

Am I this cool, or am I cutting VERY BRIGHT fabric, and looking away from it kinda fucks with my vision. Cutting the fabric & linings, as well as flatlining so many pieces for the #breakuprobeanglaise has been an ongoing process, but I am almost done. Actual sewing has been going on in between, and now we're about to start the bodice. Pray for my sanity! #breakuprobeanglaise #scrooppatterns #aidahgown #eccc #ofmd #ofmdcosplay

Who is getting excited about Halloween! Check out the front page of scrooppatterns.com where I’ve featured all the most Halloween-y patterns: although I think every single Scroop pattern has been used as the basis to a costume at this point! #scrooppatterns #charlottemantle #historicalsewingpatterns #aidahgown #halloweensewing #halloweensewingpatterns #18thcenturysewing #historicalwitch #18thcenturywitch

Over a week ago we passed a wonderful weekend with our lovely friend @albertine.charlotte following the invitation of @les_soirees_amusantes to Basel for a day of enjoyment and leisure in the "Wildtsche Haus" an amazing 18th century mansion. Thank you so much @jean_gatien_heurteloup and @mrs_ermitage for making that possible! Picture by @the_sewing_historian [picture description: two woman and a man in 18th century costumes in a historical room] #werbung (unbezahlt) #reenactment #rococo #rokoko #livinghistory #historicalcostume #historischeskostüm #18thcenturyfashion #18thcentury #18thcenturycostume #18tesjahrhundert #scrooppatterns #aidahgown #1770sfashion #1780sfashion

“I do not wish to avoid the walk, The distance is nothing when it had a motive” Jane Austen ~ Pride and Prejudice • • Gown made pattern testing of the Aidah gown from @scrooppatterns @virgilsfinegoods. • Ph. @alis.mars.photo • • #blackrabbithole #historicalsewing #historicalsewingpattern #18thcentury #18thcenturyfashion #18thcenturycostume #18thcenturydress #18thcenturystyle #18thcenturysewing #aidahgown #witchaesthetic #witchcoreaesthetic #witchy #costumedesign #costumedesigner #seamstress #seamstresslife #seamstressesofinstagram #australianshepard #larpcostume

This time last year we were prepping for the Aidah Gown photoshoot, and now I’m prepping for a photoshoot for the upcoming stays pattern. Hope I get photos that are as good this time, and we have as much fun! #scrooppatterns #aidahgown #historicalsewingpatterns #historicalsewing #historicalcostuming

#costumingyearinreview Part 1: Honestly, I’m kind of amazed at how much I actually did this year, as I scrolled back through my camera roll. 2023 has been a pleasant blur, coming out of a rough 2022. I’m grateful for every moment! 1: 12th Night ball with the best girls!! 2: I made some really adorable things for my shop @fiber.and.fae 3: @pennyrivercostumes and I published a bonnet pattern that I’m still over the moon about 4: the stays “mockup” that I’ve been wearing under all my 18thc looks this year 😂 5: obligatory pre-shenanigans car pics with my absolute costume partner in crime 6: Remade one of my favorite gowns that I haven’t been able to wear for many many years, thanks to @scrooppatterns and @virgilsfinegoods #aidahgown testing 7: why wouldn’t I make a bonnet for my cat?! 8: I started working on my dream Edwardian wardrobe, thanks to the lovely event hosted by @sartorialstatement in her fabulous historic home 9: More Edwardian dream wardrobe (draft 1) with an amazing group of friends 10: I was so excited to combine two of my favorite things, costume and a makers market with my jewelry at the spring event hosted by @hunterhousemuseum1894

Let's talk linings! While modern makers often choose fun fabrics, so their lining is a secret bit of joy, or carefully coordinate interiors with exteriors, 18th century sewists knew that their linings would never be seen, so used whatever scraps of suitable fabric they had to hand. Many extant 18th century garments feature linings made of multiple fabrics. Some are made of elaborate patchworks, when the maker had lots of little scraps. Others feature small amounts of piecing, or different fabrics for different lining panels. Sleeves and bodies lined in different fabrics, and stays with one fabric for the tabs, and another for the main body, are the most common types of fabric mixing that I've seen. I've embraced 18th century frugality for the linings of many of the Scroop + Virgils Fine Goods Samples. This is the black linen Aidah gown, with a body lined in gilt linen left over from the Augusta Stays sample, and sleeves lined in purple linen left over from a pair of Eastbourne Trousers. #scrooppatterns #18thcenturysewing #18thcenturydressmaking #18thcenturycostuming #aidahgown #18thcenturysewingpatterns #historicalsewingpatterns

I’ve been working on a few projects, but I have 3 weeks to make a gown for a brand new interpreter who will be portraying Lucy Knox on July 4. I have a huge bolt of this stripe/floral fabric, so the gown, petticoat and trimming are all from the same cotton. I’ve tasked @karenmarieblack with making an apron. I am making an #aidahgown from @virgilsfinegoods and @scrooppatterns . It’s the first time I’ve made this gown, but I really like Scroop Patterns. Thankfully the gown mockup fit with very few alterations needed. So I think I’ll get through it without too many tears or bloodshed.

I know I teased a few work in progress posts on library Belle at the beginning of the year, but I haven't shared much on the completed gown. Here she is! . The olive and khaki striped taffeta purchased a few years ago from @burnleyandtrowbridge was finally put to its intended use, and I think it gives a good depth to the look. . For the sewing, I followed the @scrooppatterns Aidah Gown pretty faithfully, only making some additions to the sleeves to emulate the puffed sleeves seen in the original animation. I was so excited when I found literally one fashion plate from my time period that had anything like a puff sleeve, so I took it and ran! . 📷 by @honeyandheatherphoto . . . #BelleCosplay #BeautyAndTheBeastCosplay #DisneyStyle #DisneyPrincess #DisneyCosplay #HistoricalCosplay #HistoricalDisney #LibraryBelle #AidahGown

How different are the Aidah & Angelica gown patterns? As different as two Italian Gown patterns can be while still having mix and match bodice & sleeve options! They share a side-back seam and an armscye, so fronts, backs, and sleeves can be interchanged, but we made every other element and technique as different as possible so that you can learn as many ways to make an Italian gown as possible between the two, maximising the creative possibilities. The Angelica has a one piece sleeve, the Aidah a two. The Angelica fastens with hidden lacing and has a side bodice seam. The Aidah hooks or pins and has no side bodice seam. And so many more! #scrooppatterns #aidahgown #angelicagown #18thcenturyfashion #18thcenturyclothing #18thcenturysewing

“A light exists in Spring Not present in the year at any other period When March is scarcely here.” ~ Emily Dickinson • • Pattern test of the Aidah gown from @virgilsfinegoods @scrooppatterns • Ph. @alis.mars.photo • • #blackrabbithole #historicalsewing #historicalsewingpattern #18thcentury #18thcenturyfashion #18thcenturycostume #18thcenturydress #18thcenturystyle #18thcenturysewing #aidahgown #witchaesthetic #witchcoreaesthetic #witchy #costumedesign #costumedesigner #seamstress #seamstresslife #seamstressesofinstagram #australianshepard #larpcostume #cottagecore #cottagecoreaesthetic

Ripley doing her very important job of checking my work. And I can use all the help I can bet bc his thing is kinda kicking my ass. Setting in skirts like this is so weird to me bc we just don't do it like this (iykyk). I know WHY it was done this way...and I KNOW it works...but Im still having trouble wrapping my brain around how to actually do it. At least I got it lined, serged the edges (we love a finished edge), pleated it, and basted them down today so tomorrow afternoon can be for the actual installation. Wish me luck!! #breakuprobeanglaise #ofmd #ofmdcosplay #crownchampionshipsofcosplay #eccc #youwearfinethingswell #aidahgown

Georgian January Day 8: Inside Working on the Scroop Patterns Aidah Gown, I’ve been practicing the “skip one catch three” hand stitch detailed in the pattern. I’m not entirely sure if I’m doing it right, but that’s why we practice, right? It’s the sort of detail no one will see but me, but why do we engage in this obscure hobby anyway if not for the love of details. #scrooppatterns #aidahgown #18thcentury ##18thcenturysewing #handsewn #historicalfashion #1770sfashion #georgianjanuary2024 #georgianjanuary

Am I just THAT cool, or am I working on some VERY bright fabrics, and looking away fucks with my vision? It's the fabric, for sure. To anyone who poo-poos me for using a lot of blue, black, and other dark colors, yeah this is why. These pinks are so bright🤣🤣 #breakuprobeanglaise #aidahgown #makeitpink #cosplayerproblems

Have you heard?🎉 The Aidah and Angelica Gown patterns have had an update, and are now printable using the Layers function in Adobe Reader! 🥳 This was one of the things requested in the survey I did last year, so I’m so excited to have made it happen. If you’re not familiar with it, Layers allows you to select and print only the sizes you want in a pattern, which is very helpful when using a pattern with lots of information.   Don’t worry if you don’t know how to do it: the Read Me First printing instructions that come with the pattern include clear instructions on printing with Layers, complete with diagrams. Get the patterns at ScroopPatterns.com! 💛 Photo by @lieut.hamsterpine of @cecilia_theresa_design in the stunning #aidahgown she made as a pattern tester. 💛 #scrooppatterns #virgilsfinegoods #18thcenturycostuming #18thcenturysewingpatterns #italiangownpattern #italiangown

The back of my #scrooppatterns #aidahgown! I’m so excited to see how this turns out! #18thcentury #18thcenturyfashion #18thcenturysewing #handsewing

I think a year later is a proper timing to publish beautiful pics 😂 I made this set last spring. The gown I’m wearing is the one I made pattern testing of the Aidah gown from @scrooppatterns @virgilsfinegoods. • Ph. @alis.mars.photo • • #blackrabbithole #historicalsewing #historicalsewingpattern #18thcentury #18thcenturyfashion #18thcenturycostume #18thcenturydress #18thcenturystyle #18thcenturysewing #aidahgown #witchaesthetic #witchcoreaesthetic #witchy #costumedesign #costumedesigner #seamstress #seamstresslife #seamstressesofinstagram

Georgian January Day 10: Details. This is the back of the hand stitched Scroop patterns Aidah Gown. I’ve only got one side of the boning channels done, and going is slow through this dense silk. I’ve got to make sure my needles are super sharp for this job. Things are at that hot mess stage, and part of me wants to give up. I’m going to see where this goes. #scrooppatterns #aidahgown #18thcentury #18thcenturysewing #handsewn #silk #georgianjanuary2024 #georgianjanuary #virgilsfinegoods

Always late for #historicalmirrormonday but better late than never 😅 • Here I’m wearing my green linen Aidah gown patterned by @virgilsfinegoods @scrooppatterns • #blackrabbithole #historicalsewing #aidahgown #18thcentury #18thcenturyfashion #18thcenturycostume #18thcenturydress #18thcenturystyle #18thcenturysewing #larp #larpcostume #mirrorselfie #chebelloesseremontodinelive

It’s taken me an atrociously long time to post about the #salonatpalaisroyal, the inaugural event by @costumersofcolor! Leading up to the event, I kept telling myself, “I’ll take care of ___ after the Chevalier Ball” as I tried to finish my dress, and then suddenly it was after the ball and I had so much real life stuff to catch up on. But! Grades and second quarter lesson planning and parent-teacher-conferences and kids’ Halloween costumes are done now, so here we go. The educational portion of this event made the INTJ/Type 5 in me SO HAPPY: I love a dose of learning with my fun-having. But even better than that was the people I got to hang out with. I had the best roomies (@confusedkittysewing, @bobabirb, nickelpin, and honorary roommate @criticalseam), got to finally see IRL people I’ve only ever talked to online, and got to meet someone whose historical sewing blog I’ve been following for ages, and just the general joy of being with fellow costume nerds. My dress was made possible by @scrooppatterns’ excellent #aidahgown pattern, fabric and petticoat from @simply_mi, and lots of sewing advice from @confusedkittysewing and @criticalseam. At the last minute, I had a “what do I do with my hair” panic, and our group decided to just run with hanfu hairstyles…that ended up being my favorite style decision, and I felt so delightfully sparkly and fancy. I’m now slightly addicted to 18th century style after looking at so many extant gowns, and I have Ideas. #18thcenturycostume #18thcenturydress #historicallyadequate #costumersofcolor #asianhistoricalcostumer #chevalierball

I hate my basement lighting, but I’m loving the Aidah gown as it takes shape. #scrooppatterns #virgilsfinegoods #aidahgown #18thcentury #18thcenturygown

It is still #georgianjanuary2024 by @modernmantuamaker and today's word is "large"... Large like the hot air balloon that happens to be in out city-park, or large like my backside with the double bumpad I am wearing under my #aidahgown I made by testing @scrooppatterns pattern back a year ago. Photo @bodeszphoto , who else? #georgianjanuary #georgianjanuary2024large #historiccostuming #historicsewing #18thcenturycrafts #18thcenturyfashion #rococofashion #thereisroomforimprovment #sewinghistoricclothes #historicsewing #18thcentury #historicalclothing #historicalfashion #costuming #historicalcostuming #historicalclothes #scrooppatterns #18thcenturycostuming #18thcenturycostume #historicalsewing#sewinghistoricclothes #historicsewing #18thcentury #historicalclothing #historicalfashion #costuming #historicalcostuming #historicalclothes #historicalsewing

It took 3 nights (and about 8-ish hours, but I FINALLY finished step 7, which was doing a very new-to-me still (English Stitch) for 19". I might have done them a little smaller than instructed, but it lays flat and is clean. WOO! Time for pasta & wine! #breakuprobeanglaise #aidahgown #ofmd #scrooppatterns #eccc #youwearfinethingswell

The best autumn vibes. 🧡🖤 #aidahgown #mariemantle #scrooppatterns @scrooppatterns @virgilsfinegoods

Decompressing from the #aidahgown launch by making a pair of #eastbournetrousers with help from Miss Felicity. That cat just loves sitting on fabric! #scrooppatterns #felicitythesewingcat #sewingwithcats #sewingcat #calicocat

Waste not, want not! The linings of 18th century dresses like the #aidahgown were often made from a mix of fabrics: the makers just used whatever scraps they had, as the lining would never be seen. In keeping with this tradition, the body of the black Aidah sample is lined in the same gilt linen as my #augustastays, but the sleeves are lined in a purple linen left over from making a pair of #eastbournetrousers and a #fantailskirt - I had to piece it to have enough, but that’s very period accurate too! #scrooppatterns #virgilsfinegoods #18thcenturyclothing #18thcenturysewing

Feast upon some very satisfying stripes 😌 . I'm using the Aidah Gown pattern from @scrooppatterns for Library Belle and decided to have some fun with the stripey placement on the back panels. . . . #CosplayWIP #HistoricalCosplay #HistoricalDisney #18thCentury #ScroopPatterns #AidahGown #LibraryBelle #Katsucrunch #BelleCosplay

More progress on my #aidahgown! I have since cut out the skirts and sewn the center back together. Now time for pleatssssss! #18thcentury #18thcenturygown #18thcenturyfashion #handsewn #handsewing #historicalfashion #historicalsewing #historicalcostume

Originally, this textile was an 18th-century chintz – a glazed cotton fabric printed with floral motifs, widely used in fashion and interiors around 1780. For this project, I carefully digitized the original museum design, preserving its authentic character, scale, and color palette. ⠀ The fabric you see here is my own historical reconstruction, created for a research project. Soon, it will become a robe à l’anglaise from 1780–1785, made using the @scrooppatterns Aidah Gown pattern. ⠀ Recreating historical textiles is a fascinating way to bridge past and present. Would you wear a dress made from this chintz-inspired fabric? ⠀ #historicaltextiles #18thcenturyfashion #chintz #reproductionfabric #digitalreconstruction #costumemaker #robealanglaise #fashionhistory #historicalsewing #aidahgown #scrooppatterns #researchproject #18thcentury #1780 #historicalcostume #historicalgown #periodcostume #historicallyaccurate #slowfashion #fashionhistory #fashionarchives #behindtheseams #artisanalprocess #historicalfashion

I have begun fitting the Scroop Patterns “Aidah Gown”. Miraculously the size 40 fit pretty well without any modifications aside from the shoulder strap. The sleeve, however, could not contain my mighty pythons. I am in the process of following the pattern’s instructions for an alteration. This is the first recreational sewing project I have worked on since the death of a very dear, close friend, who was my sewing mentor, and historical costume partner in crime for 20 years. I find myself reaching for my phone to message her about fabric choices, and technical questions, but then I am reminded…. The last time we hung out, I ordered this pattern on her recommendation. In some ways, I intend this project as an homage, a prayer, and a wish. #scrooppatterns #aidahgown #1770s #1780s #historicalcostume #18thcenturysewing #georgianjanuary #georgianjanuary2024

“I am not an angel,” I asserted; “and I will not be one till I die: I will be myself. Charlotte Brontë ~ Jane Eyre • • Pattern test of the Aidah gown from @virgilsfinegoods @scrooppatterns • Ph. @alis.mars.photo • • #blackrabbithole #historicalsewing #historicalsewingpattern #18thcentury #18thcenturyfashion #18thcenturycostume #18thcenturydress #18thcenturystyle #18thcenturysewing #aidahgown #witchaesthetic #witchcoreaesthetic #witchy #costumedesign #costumedesigner #seamstress #seamstresslife #seamstressesofinstagram #australianshepard #larpcostume #cottagecore #cottagecoreaesthetic

Here’s a little #charlottemantle and #aidahgown fabulosity to break up all the #cassandrastaysewalong posts! I absolutely love how much a mantle can change the look of an 18th century outfit, and how it makes things look complete. #scrooppatterns #18thcenturyfashion #18thcenturycostume

Saturday was a solo con day for me, so this was the only full picture I have of the #breakuprobeanglaise I know more will be coming out as ppl start posting...and that I actually have to take the damn pictures myself, too🤣🤣 I didn't win, or even place at the #crownchampionshipsofcosplay, but I knew that going in. I always know I'm not going to win, but not bc I don't think I'm good enough or "it was rigged" or whatever. And I actually push back against ppl who say that (even as a joke). Fact if the matter is I'm just not "good enough" yet. I've been sewing for well over 2 decades, but only doing cosplay for maybe 4 or 5 years. The winners have put in their 10,000 hrs (and then some), and I'm still working toward that. And I'll get there one day, but it will take time. I also know what I enter isn't what (traditionally) wins. I don't enter big ball gowns, intricately carved armor, giant props with LEDs, or things that are super trendy at the moment. Zero shade to those who do, bc that is you and your passion. My passion is historical shit, niche musicals, something that I find funny, or one of the DOZENS of HUFS rejects I've submitted over the years. Shit not everyone will get, but the ones that do go FERAL (and I love that). That doesn't win/place in cosplay competitions, but they get in, so where is that link to sign up? At the risk of sounding like a high school football coach, my only competition is me. I busted my ass on this and am super proud of it...but I want my next build to be better. Making this entire thing was a challenge, and now I'm ready for another. And don't worry, the Break up Robe Anglaise will be at future cons/events bc I like it, it is comfy, and I worked hard on it. #ofmd #ofmdcosplay #youwearfinethingswell #scrooppatterns #aidahgown #thankyounext #readyforanothergo