Current WIP the Cassandra Stays #cassandrastays #scrooppatterns #18thcenturysewing #18thcenturystays #18thcenturystaysmaking #18thcenturycostuming #historicalcostuming #historicalsewing #18thcenturyfashion

Finished the cutting down. Here you can see how much The Cassandra Stays pattern differs from the original stays. The front and back side panels aren’t that different, by the back, and especially the side front have quite dramatic changes. #historicalsewing #historicalcostume #18thcenturycostume #18thcenturystays #cassandrastays #scrooppatterns #sewing

Need help with the fit of the Cassandra and Augusta Stays patterns? Amber @virgilsfinegoods and I can’t offer personalised fitting advice on our patterns (if we did we’d never manage to make another pattern!), but there are a number of ways to get advice: ⭐️ First, make sure you’ve read all the supplementary blog posts and watched the videos on fitting stays. We’ve already put a TON of information out there. It’s all linked through at the bottom of the pattern pages for each pattern at ScroopPatterns.com ⭐️If you still need help, post in the Scroop Patterns Sewing Group on Facebook. There are lots of other sewists there with a whole range of fitting experience. You can ask about any pattern - and then show off your finished make! ⭐️It also helps to post progress images on instagram with the hashtag for the pattern, and ask your fit questions. You never know who will see and have had, and solved, the same issue. If we have time Amber or I will answer questions posted in either of those ways. That way our answers are useful to future makers. ⭐️ There’s also an excellent Facebook group called 18th Century Stays - Fitting that is solely focused on stay fitting advice for all patterns. ⭐️ I’ve also seen some great advice in response to questions in r/historicalcostuming on Reddit. Happy staymaking! #scrooppatterns #virgilsfinegoods #staymaking #staypatterns #augustastays #cassandrastays #fittingstays

Some more details from my outfit! The first picture shows putting together the center back. I drafted a pattern based on the guidelines from the American Duchess' Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking, and made only one mockup before this one! Fun fact, this yellow dress was supposed to be the mockup, but I ran out of time and just rolled with it for the event! Second picture: tape going in for the skirt waist Third picture: one side of the #cassandrastays taping done for one side! The tan part at the bottom of the tabs (little fingery parts) gets wrapped around so the raw edges are nicely enclosed. I bought a chamois cloth from O'Reilly for the leather binding and I'll do it again. Fourth picture: close up on the inside of the tabs because I love ticking stripes. My most precious dream is to make an eyesore of a dress. I want eyewatering stripes, I want to be a walking migraine experience/acid trip, I want vivid orange with shattering blue. Each color combo will be a different dress and I will be dancing. #18thcenturywomensfashion #1780sfashion #americanduchess #italiangown

Some materials for my upcoming #cassandrastays : salmon worsted wool “stuff” and light pumpkin and cream striped linen. Oh yeah, and lots and lots of German plastic whalebone (closely resembles the real whalebone that was used in historical stays) - all from @burnleyandtrowbridge For the inner support layers I’ll be using mid-heavyweight linen from my stash, and making one of those layers into buckram. ✨ #staymaking #1770sfashion #historicalfashion #18thcentury #18thcenturyfashion #handsewn #handmade #scrooppatterns #linen #wool

Renaissance Festival shenaniganry at @pittrenfest for Pirate Weekend! Stays, shirt, and petticoat all made by yours truly. The stays are newly (mostly) finished and are the Cassandra Stays from @scrooppatterns #renaissancefestival #renaissancefaire #pirate #piratecore #piratecostume #scrooppatterns #virgilsfinegoods #cassandrastays #handmade #handsewn #historicalcostume #historicalsewing #itsmadelinedesigns

No, I haven’t abandoned the Cassandra Stays Sew Along! I’ve just been slowly working on the next step (while also working on the new pattern - sneak peek in the background!) and the post for that will be up soon! So, if you’ve wanted to join but worried you were behind, now is the perfect time to catch up! #scrooppatterns #cassandrastays #cassandrastayssewalong #handsewing #staymaking #18thcenturycostume #18thcenturysewing

This is how not to fit a pair of stays: Over a T-shirt, still wearing a bra, with the tabs not cut! No, no, no! You should always fit stays over the type of undergarment you intend to wear the stays with.  A T-shirt and bra, or even a t-shirt alone, will support your bust in a very different way than a shift.   In Slide 2 you can see how my Cassandra stays are collapsing slightly at the side, because my bra is lifting my bust inward, leaving a hollow at the sides. You also need to cut your tabs to properly assess the fit.  You can see how much the tap spacing at the side front is struggling (Slide 3) , because it needs the tabs on either side of it to be released as well. Once I cut the tabs open I may actually be able to lace the stays a little tighter, which means they are slightly too big for me as they are now, and need to be taken in. However, even with a ‘bad’ fitting, the fit on these Cassandra Stays is SO comfortable! And how pretty is that solid back? #scrooppatterns #cassandrastays #cassandrastayssewalong #virgilsfinegoods #staymaking #fittingstays #fittingcorsets #18thcenturystays #18thcenturysewingpatterns

I'm more than a month late for the #cassandrastayssewalong hosted by @scrooppatterns , but hey, better late than never, right? Mockup #1 is underway and I've solved some issues but DEFINITELY not all. I've had to make a lot of adjustments in the center front to accommodate the girls, as always, and I finally after four or five try ons added more height to the top and actually feel supported. Yay!! The back, though...the back is a hot mess. It's way too long in the waist and pinching me. I should have shortened the waist automatically before cutting like I usually do, but I had no idea how these were going to fit, so I opted to not. I think from here, I'm going to have to transfer my adjustments to the pattern, shorten the waistline, and do a second mockup, before I can make any more adjustments. And for reference: I'm making the theatrical view with stomacher, and shooting to have a 3" gap in the center front and 2" gap in the back to accommodate for my frequent body changes. I'll be using a blend of the historical and modern instructions to build, and the final stays will be SPOOKY and REVERSIBLE, with bright purple wool on one side, and Beetlejuice striped cotton on the other 😄 #cassandrastays #cassandrastaysewalong

Quality control cat is in position... #cassandrastays #catsofinstagram #qualitycontrolcat

Tässä on varmaan yks mun isoimmista projekteista ikinä, nyt vihdoin valmiina🤩 Tää on siis 1760-1780 luvun muodin mukainen korsetti (oikeestaan tää ei oo korsetti vaan stays mut sille ei taida löytyä mitään tarkempaa suomennosta:) Tein suurimman osan ompelukoneella eli ei ole ihan historiallisesti "aito", mutta oli tässä muutenkin jo ihan tarpeeksi näpertämistä😅 Ohje on #cassandrastays ihanalta @scrooppatterns :lta🥰 ohje oli ihan todella selkee ja yksityiskohtanen, mikä helpotti tekemistä todella paljon🤗 Kankaat on Porin Nuikkiselta😊

I’ve been very slack on finishing up the #cassandrastayssewalong because a minor arm injury was followed by seam-tape sourcing issues (aka ‘I put it somewhere safe and now I can’t find it’) but I’m back on track, so watch out for progress and new posts coming soon! #cassandrastays #staymaking #18thcenturycostume #18thcenturycostuming #handsewing

Day 16 - 18th century #fallforcostume2024 This color combination is very English - especially apron with stripes was very common. Stays are made by using @scrooppatterns Cassandra Stays #cassandrastays pattern (I was testing it) and after long fiddling with red bodice, it is so refreshing to have something nice, well fitted and supportin but still comfortable.

Photo by @brendonfehre Stays are made by @irwin.tseing using #Cassandrastays by @scrooppatterns. The stays are very comfortable! The only uncomfortable thing about them is that i have yet to line them 😯 #18thcentury #instasewing #pictureoftheday #scroop #pictureoftheday #instagood #instasew #instamood #fairytale #costume #18thcentury #guysinstays #fashionandtextiles #instagay #stays #corset #historicalcostuming #gay #gaysewers #guyswhosew #modeling #modellife #malemodel #model

The #cassandrastayssewalong continues over at thedreamstress.com, where I cover how to finish the interior seams before the final assembly! #cassandrastays #scrooppatterns #staymaking #18thcenturystays

I’ve just updated the website with a new featured collection on the front page: multi-fit patterns with bust and hip fit options! Adding different cup sizes and hip flares to patterns is a lot of work, but it makes it so much easier for you as the sewist to get the right fit, quickly! From the Robin Dress & Ngaio Blouse, with their extra cup sizes; through the Cassandra & Augusta Stays, with two different bust-waist ratio size sets; to the Rilla Corset with two waist-hip ratios, and the Persis Corset which has three cup sizes AND two waist-hip ratio choices, I hope you love the flexibility and fit ease these patterns offer you #scrooppatterns #scrooprobin #robindress #fullbustfriendlypatterns #multicupsizepatterns #ngaioblouse #cassandrastays #augustastays #rillacorset #persiscorset #corsetmaking #corsetpatterns #staypatterns

I have disassembled the stays, removed the boning and pressed the pieces. Here put on the Cassandra pattern pieces. It really brings home how short-waisted I am. Also, the tabs will probably not look like they do on the Cassandra stays when done. These stays were originally based on an original pair from Jill Salen’s ”Corsets”, and I made them 15 years ago. #historicalsewing #historicalcostume #18thcenturycostume #18thcenturystays #scrooppatterns #cassandrastays

And the winner of the poll was… (by a landslide!) …narrow linen tape! (luckily that was my fave too) And now the long, slow process of stitching it on begins. #scrooppatterns #cassandrastays #staymaking #cassandrastayssewalong

finished #cassandrastays for Grace!! i made some significant changes to the pattern, namely making them front lacing, lengthening the front length by about 1.5”, and changing the boning layout on the entire front panel to better support the front lacing. these changes were inspired by a pair of original stays in the CW collection and will allow Grace to more easily get dressed by herself. it was my first time using the cassandra pattern and even though i didn’t follow it closely, i found it very helpful in providing all the shapes to work with and it’s very adaptable & adjustable :) i will absolutely be making more versions in the future! On this pair of stays not only did I use machine sewing for all the channels, but I also machined as much of the construction as possible, including most of the panel seams, which i figured out can be zigzagged on the machine instead of whipped by hand. this created a very satisfying finish that can still be covered with tape by hand and still feels pretty sturdy. i also left out the bellypiece and waist reinforcements because these stays won’t receieve daily hard wearing. even with these modifications, it still took about a week of labor spread over about a week and a half of time. MATERIALS: two different worsted remnants from B&T two layers of homemade buckram linen lining, tape, & plastic whalebone from B&T leather binding from @pennyrivercostumes cotton topstitch thread from @wawaksewing cassandra stays pattern by @scrooppatterns & @virgilsfinegoods

#fallforcostume day 14: Renaissance. My local Renaissance Festival was absolutely my gateway into fantasy costuming, so I had to show off a little bit this year Swipe to see baby’s first Ren Fest sewing project in 2018- I’d fashioned a regency style petticoat out of a skirt I didn’t wear anymore and I was so proud of myself. Ah, growth. #renaissancefestival #renaissancefaire #pirate #piratecore #piratecostume #scrooppatterns #virgilsfinegoods #cassandrastays #handmade #handsewn #historicalcostume #historicalsewing #itsmadelinedesigns

Photo by @brendonfehre Stays are made using #Cassandrastays by @scrooppatterns. I really love these stays. #18thcentury #instasewing #pictureoftheday #scroop #pictureoftheday #instagood #instasew #instamood #fairytale #costume #18thcentury #guysinstays #fashionandtextiles #instagay #stays #corset #historicalcostuming #gay #gaysewers #guyswhosew

How many pairs of stays is enough? N + 1 of course! I just finished this early 1770s pair of stays using the Cassandra pattern from @scrooppatterns and @virgilsfinegoods . It’s all hand stitched with 3 layers of linen from @burnleyandtrowbridge and I even made my own buckram for extra structure! 📸 @stitch.and.chisel • #eighteethcenturyfashion #cassandrastays #stays #corset #historicfashion #handsewing

My English gown is slow going post workshop, but I make progress here and there. I slept for 12hr straight that Sunday night and I’m still getting back to a sleep-normal. Having that idiopathic hypersomnia diagnosis helps a lot though. Just knowing I’m not crazy. Apparently it’s #menditmay so I’ve also included Olivia’s Olivia. The dog took a bite out of her dress and I used my new pleating skills and pretty B&T fabric scraps to make the mend fun. And I’m *very* pleased with my #cassandrastays There are still bits to finish up on them but they were comfortable for the whole workshop weekend. #burnleyandtrowbridgeworkshop #historicalsewing #sewingwithcats #rufuslerouge

I’ve spent the last month working on a pair of #cassandrastays so that I’ll be ready for the Burnley and Trowbridge workshop in April. I’m remembering why I never understood the purpose of thimbles when I was learning to sew. The tips of first and second finger on my left hand are all chewed up from the needle hitting it when I push it through the fabric. I don’t need anything to help push it through, I just need something to protect my fingers on the other side. I tried the regular historical view but I’m just too stiff in too many places to easily lace up behind my back anymore. So I’m using the historical instructions with the theatrical view. The length was perfect, which was what I was hoping for. They looked like they would be shorter than many patterns out there. And I only had to take in the bust a little bit for the right fit in the mockup. I will fit more closely with the real fabric and layers. I’ve finished 3 and a half of the 10 pieces and each channel I sew gets faster. My outer fabric is a @burnleyandtrowbridge herringbone linen I bought maybe 4-5 years ago. And the inner layers are both a heavyweight linen from Fabrics-store. I made one of those layers into buckram with xanthan gum. It loosens a lot as soon as I start sewing it, but it’s still significantly stiffer than the linen without.

that’s a conical silhouette if i ever saw one 😇 finished #cassandrastays in size 36 straight on the body they were made for 🫡🧵🪡 I’m very pleased! ✨ #stays #staymaking #scrooppatterns #virgilsfinegoods #burnleyandtrowbridge #18thcentury #eighteenthcentury #historicalfashion #historicalsewing #corsetry

two gifts and a commission 🥰 or, the month in stays. 🪡🧵✨ the top stays used the cassandra stays pattern in size 50, which i then altered both to fit the individual, and to reflect the style of a fabulous pair of original stays in the @philamuseum . they feature wide curved tabs, and a simpler version of the decorative cords stitched on the front panel as seen on the original. the middle stays are based off an original pair of small child’s stays from the @colonialwmsburg collection. i drafted the pattern myself using the measurements from the collections website. the original pair of stays was worn by a child in Scotia, NY, which is right across the river from where i’m spending the winter, which i think is super cool! the third pair of stays, which i’ve posted about before, were also based off the cassandra stays pattern in size 36, and altered to imitate another original set of stays from CW, which are notable because they lace in the front. Because of the front lacing, this pair does not have the bust rails or bellypiece reinforcements that I would normally include on adult stays, so it will be interesting to see what shape they create when worn. all three pairs of stays were constructed with a mix of machine and hand sewing, using worsted wool, linen, and synthetic boning from @burnleyandtrowbridge , cotton thread from @wawaksewing , and leather binding from @pennyrivercostumes . The cassandra stays pattern is published by @scrooppatterns & @virgilsfinegoods 🥰 this represents a little less than one month’s work. i’m so happy that i got to spend a month making stays!! it’s one of my favorite things to make and i’ve figured out several new techniques over the past month to make my work go smoother. thanks for following along, friends! ✨ #staymaking #18thcenturystays #corsetry #stays #cassandrastays #cassandrastaysewalong

Here we go (again)…this will be my 3rd pair of stays made by hand using historical methods and I’m excited for this one! Wish my hands luck 😂 I’m using @scrooppatterns Cassandra stays pattern. But first, need to make a mockup! 🪡🧵 #staymaking #18thcentury #historicalfashion #18thcenturyfashion #cassandrastays #handsewn #handmade #fallproject #18thcenturystays #1770s

second stays mockup for sweet @graciealberti 🪿❤️‍🔥👻 (here they’re modeled by me so the fit isn’t perfect but close enough!) these are the #cassandrastays (36, straight) adapted to be back lacing only. I’ve also lengthened the front of the stays 1.5” and redrawn the boning channels on the front pieces. these modifications are inspired by an extant pair of stays in the @colonialwmsburg collection ✨

Here are some of the extant stays @virgilsfinegoods and I based the #cassandrastays pattern on to inspire your weekend sewing 💛 Follow the links at the bottom of the pattern description page at scrooppatterns.com to read more about them, and what elements got incorporated into the pattern! #scrooppatterns #staymaking #18thcenturystays #18thcenturystaysmaking #18thcenturystayspattern

Ok here we be. The front looks ok, but the back.... I don't know. Anybody know how to fix stays gaping at the top back?? Also I realized I forgot to tag the pattern! 😳 @scrooppatterns #cassandrastays And ok yes there's supposed to be a 1inch gap at the back, but I went up a size from mock up to actual, and I think I'll just keep both stays intact to have options.... I already harvested the bones from the mockup, so I'll have to re-bone, but eh. Small price to pay. Man it makes sense that this was a specialized profession. I've watched a full season of Midsomemr Murders, the entirety of Love Island, and listened to 3 books while making these stays. Just these! Not even the mock up! #1780sfashion #1780s #staymaking #wip #lookidontknowwhatimdoingok #ijustdostuff #itsgiving80s #georgianunderwear

A good photo of the stays I made earlier this year. Yes, my nipple is slipping out 😲 Photo by @brendonfehre Stays are made using #Cassandrastays by @scrooppatterns. The stays are very comfortable! The only uncomfortable thing about them is that i have yet to line them 😯 #18thcentury #instasewing #pictureoftheday #scroop #pictureoftheday #instagood #instasew #instamood #fairytale #costume #18thcentury #guysinstays #fashionandtextiles #instagay #stays #corset #historicalcostuming #gay #gaysewers #guyswhosew

This weekend I drove up to the @dfwcosguild 's sewing retreat! It was a busy couple of days, full of sewing, chaos, costumes, and a dye workshop! It was a ton of fun, and this introvert is ready for some much-needed solitude, but I had a great time! Beatlejuice spooky #cassandrastays : FINISHED!!! More photos later. When it's cooler. 1880's lobster foundation skirt is pleated and ready for 🦞🦞🦞! Bonus--I finally had a chance to wear my 1690's mantua, though I was too tired to bust out the fontange or anything resembling a hairdo and makeup 😂😳

Nice. Finally getting along to the last bits. To solve the problem of the back being too tall, I cut it down by two eyelets 😬😬 Binding this damn thing has been the longest part I think. SO close to being done. Photos of the backside of the stays because I think it looks cool. Backstich is INCREDIBLY satisfying to do and to look at. #cassandrastays #georgianunderwear #1780sfashion #1780sunderwear #wip #looksgoodtho

Day 6 is "wool!" Since I live in a state whose average temp is above 80°F nine months out of the year, wool is not a practical material for me most of the time. But I couldn't resist making these stays out of some lightweight worsted wool stuff that I got from @burnleyandtrowbridge a few years ago. A quick trip into the dyepot with some acid dye from @dharmatradingco resulted in the most unreal and incredible color for my witchy Halloween #cassandrastays ! Bonus: they're interlined with herringbone linen, making them the most comfortable, breathable stays for a (usually hot) spoopy season! 💜 #Fallforcostume2024 hosted by @sew_through_time #18thcenturyfashion #18thcenturystays #18thcenturycostume #witch #witchy #spoopy

I finally finished these stays! The body linen and plastic boning came from @burnleyandtrowbridge and the lining linen (blue check) from @wm._booth_draper. The pattern was the #Cassandrastays from @scrooppatterns @virgilsfinegoods The channels are machine sewn but the rest is done by hand. This was quite a learning experience, and I'd like to make another set eventually. I made a LOT of mistakes... the tabs are weird, the seam allowance on the back pieces got cut too short to cover the gap for the lining, and I still haven't figured out the inner curves for the tab binding, but I'm really pleased overall! shape. #stays #18thcenturystays #stayslining #linen #handsewing #18thcenturyfashion #historicalcostuming #livinghistory #finishedproject #sewingdetails #checkedlinen