I spent some time this week making a few staples. I’m trying to build out my wardrobe with more casual pieces so I can mix and match. I made a (self drafted!) half-circle skirt and another Dawson Top out of the same fabric. Skirt: - I wanted a wide waistband but I only used 1” elastic - I don’t really like the feel of elastic larger than that. - The waistband is only a bit larger than my waist because I didn’t want that bunched up look. To help have a flat front band, I tacked the elastic on both sides where the seams are so that it only bunches up in the back. This will also help the elastic to keep from flipping. - I only looked it up after cutting out the skirt, but it turns out you can’t have horizontal (or vertical) bands on a circle skirt because of the way the pattern is cut. In the future, I want to make a gathered skirt so that the stripes can be parallel to the ground. Oh well, it still looks cute! Dawson Top: - This shirt is just as comfortable as the final muslin I made! The only adjustment from that one to this is that I shortened the neckband a bit (and it still wasn’t enough). Neckbands are tricky - I finally feel like I can sew them on without it going wobbly, but I’m having a hard time getting the right fit since it is different based on the fabric stretch etc. I really should baste it on and try it out but that takes extra time…. #CurvySewing #PlusSizeSewing #FatSewingClub #ISew #MeMade #HandmadeWardrobe #Sewcialist #IndiePatterns #SewistsOfInstagram #Sewing #BeginnerSewist #BeginnerSewing #TexasSews #DFWsews #DawsonTop #HelensClosetPatterns #HelensCloset #HelensClosetDawsonTop

Two @helens__closet #dawsontop made up ready for a forthcoming camping trip. It’s been a while since I last made this pattern but I think it’s rapidly becoming one of my favourites. I made a straight size 14 because I know it’s quite fitted and I wanted just a little extra ease. The pale one was made from a remnant and some scraps, hence the joins in the sleeves and test version then I immediately cut out the cyan coloured one! I was that impressed! They both have labels, some @kylieandthemachine , a @cosyclubhandmade and a @whatvickimade just to finish them off. Can’t wait to wear them now 😁. And obviously they are all in my @stash_hub app! #sewover50 #sewover50october24 #helenscloset #helensclosetdawsontop #cosyclubhandmade #katmlabels #memade #imakemyclothes #imakemyownclothes #sewingmakesmehappy

At this time of year layering comes in to its own, and a pinafore dress worn like this, or with a cardigan thrown on over the top, covers the changeable weather we seem to get at the moment. This is the Helen's Closet York Pinafore Dress worn over my go to t-shirt pattern the Helen's Closet Dawson Top. I originally made my pinafore dress with the higher neck, but after wearing it a couple of times I decided to lower the neckline, so I removed the bias binding and sewed it up lower and I'm much happier with how this fits now. Like my other Helen's Closet Patterns, this was a nice straightforward sew with excellent instructions. The pink corduroy and floral jersey are both fabrics brought from my local Hobbycraft store. #helenscloset #helensclosetdawsontop #helensclosetyorkpinafore #hobbycraft #makewithhobbycraft #handmade #sewing #homesewing #memadewardrobe #imakemyownclothes #memade #sewingismypassion #jukiclub #franklinscolchester ##jukisewing

Having fun with my DIY avatar, stash fabrics and fall plans!! Fall is my favourite season and I’m so excited for it to start! To make this avatar, I asked my partner to take pictures of me in form fitting clothes and then I simply drew over them on Procreate. It was a fun, relaxing process that was perfect for a bad day health wise. I made my own avatar since I couldn’t find plus size fashion drawings of someone in a wheelchair (someone that looked like me anyway, as @chamiahdeweyfashion and @zoehong both have one/some. Go check them out!). I followed along this year with the #designyourwardrobe program at @seamwork and it’s been really fun and helpful to plan the months ahead. I have many wardrobe gaps due to changing size and it’s been hard deciding what to prioritize before, but now it seems so much clearer and simpler. It also helped me plan with my stash in mind. I can see myself repeating the process. From top to bottom: #julieblouse (coming soon) @originaldigby #apostropheleggings @apostrophe.patterns #helensclosetdawsontop @helens__closet #apostropheleggings #helensclosetdawsontop #seatedpants (working on them) #dyw #seamworkdyw2023 #fashionillustration #disabledavatar #disabledfashion

Me Made May -Day 6 Thankfully it’s cooler today, now if it will just rain ☔️ to help with all the wildfires 🔥 so my friends can go home 🏡 @helens__closet #helensclosetdawsontop in jersey from @blackbirdfabrics #wikstenunfoldingjacket in midweight linen from @blackbirdfabrics @annaallenclothing #annaallenpersephonepants in denim from @formerlatterfabrics #memademay2023 #handmadewardrobe #sewover50

@kesiatk here: I LOVE @helens__closet ‘s Dawson Top! The mock neck version is so chic in this rib knit from @thefabricsnob. A perfect fall shirt. I squeezed this one out of .9m of fabric! I am definitely planning to make so many of these. I made a size 18 D cup and took an inch out of the length. #dawsontop #helensclosetpatterns #helensclosetdawsontop #academicssewingcircle #memade

I'm glad I got the chance to wear my ultimate trouser pattern made in to shorts the other day, before the weather changed again..... I'm not really a shorts sort of person, I'd usually go for either cropped trousers or a skirt, but now I'm making all my own clothes, I thought why not! I've made the ultimate trouser pattern up a few times now because I love the fit on me. They are my go to trouser pattern, so it was an obvious choice for me to make them up in to shorts. I added a waistband following Lisa's video. I chose a stretch denim fabric from Hobbycraft, as I thought they would go with everything. I got these out of just under a metre of fabric, a bargain 😀 I'm also wearing a Helen's Closet Dawsons top. #handmade #sewing #sewoveritlondon #soiultimatetrouser #hobbycraft #homesewing #memadewardrobe #imakemyownclothes #memade #sewingismypassion #jukiclub #franklinscolchester  #MakeWithHobbycraft #jukisewing #memademay #helenscloset #helensclosetdawsontop

I hadn’t noticed The Assembly line (TAL) Apron dress until Me Made May and the dress made by @sewsewkat. All of a sudden I needed this pattern! Especially as I love a pinafore type dress. It was my first time sewing a TAL pattern and I would definitely recommend their instructions- very easy to read and understand. Pattern: @theassemblylineshop #talaprondress Fabric: black cotton from @weftandwarpfabrics sorry, Rebecca and Matthew- I can’t remember which it is! Both pattern and fabric bought from @weftandwarpfabrics and copied from their in store sample Worn with @helens__closet Dawson top made from merino from @wearethefabricstore Notions: @kylieandthemachine labels and Kam snaps for the back

I completed the @helens__closet Dawson top this weekend. I got the kit to make it from the @guthrieghani sewing society with this gorgeous bamboo French terry fabric. The fabric is amazing - such a lovely weight and fabulous to sew! I also used the Maraflex thread in the kit to topstitch the neckline. It also came with stretch fix which I used for the hems before coverstitching them. The Dawson is a great pattern, but I didn’t realise this lovely scoop neckline only works with one of my bras - all the others show 🤦🏼‍♀️🤦🏼‍♀️😁 The only mod I made to the pattern is to straighten the sides a bit as I have a fat mid section! It’s still a bit snug, but I made this for a layering top! I’ll make another one for sure, but I’ll maybe try the crew neck next time!!! #helensclosetpatterns #helensclosetdawsontop #guthrieghanisewingsociety #guthrieandghani #guthrieghanisewingsocietykit

Making these trousers was super fun. I love it when a pattern includes beautiful finishings so I don’t have to go off script. They are #blpbilly trousers in natural linen. Worn with a #cinchmeimdreamingdress hacked into a cropped top in @merchantandmills linen. As well as my #helensclosetdawsontop over a self-drafted bra, and finally my #honeygirltee. #sewistofinstagram

My most recent make from remnants and scraps. This is a @helens__closet #dawsontop I lowered the neckline slightly and re measured the opening. I didn’t have enough of the bear fabric and not enough of the petrol jersey to cut the back on grain and in one piece so I had to cut it slightly bigger with the stretch running down instead of across and out a join in the middle. It turned out ok so it’s having its first outing today on our January camping trip. I’m wearing it with my @daughterjudypatterns #worshipjeans which I absolutely love and Simon is also sporting #memade and he’s wearing his #helensclosetjacksonhoodie with his @wardrobebymepatterns #mensjeans We got a great view from our pitch and so far the weather is being very kind, and there’s still bits of snow ⛄️ #sewover50jan #sewingwithscraps #sewover50 #sewingwithleftovers #helensclosetpatterns #helensclosetdawsontop #helensclosetjacksonpullover #memade #sewingformyself #sewingformyhusband #wintercamping #campinginthelakedistrict #sew50sustainablesewing

I made a t-shirt! And not just that, but I made 3 mock-ups (this is the 3rd) and now it fits me to a T. The best part of sewing your own clothes is making things that work for YOU - even a regular t-shirt. Pattern: Dawson Top (Helen’s Closet) Size: 26 bust grade to 32 waist (this part got a bit wonky) Fabric: Thrifted from Thistle Creative Adjustments: - 1/4” FBA just to give a bit of room and prevent stretch lines - Shortened by 1” (I’m only 5’3”…) - Adjusted neckline to suit myself better - I graded out at the waist to 34 originally but that was too much so I had to scale it back bit by bit. I think I could have just done 32 instead. #CurvySewing #PlusSizeSewing #FatSewingClub #ISew #MeMade #HandmadeWardrobe #Sewcialist #IndiePatterns #SewistsOfInstagram #Sewing #BeginnerSewist #BeginnerSewing #TexasSews #DFWsews #DawsonTop #HelensClosetPatterns #HelensCloset #HelensClosetDawsonTop

I made another Dawson top from @helens__closet, this time with some rib knit I had in my stash. I made size 14 in the D cup size range. I hemmed it with a double needle. #helenscloset #helensclosetdawsontop #sewing #sewingwithribknit #sewingtops #janomemc6700p #janomemakes #52weeksewingchallenge #52weeksewingchallenge2024 #sewingmyownclothes #ilovetosewmyownclothes #imakemyownclothes #sewbustycommunity #montrealsews #coudre #sewingaddict

A tale of three Dawson tops! Since our weekend plans fell through I decided to spend time I would have been out of the house tackling some knit fabric I've had on hand for two years! Made the mock neck view with the elbow sleeves in a size 14, D cup option. I made these more as layering pieces, and they're a bit fitted for my regular taste. They'll get lots of use under dresses. I learned a lot during the process of making three knit tops in a row!! I learned to use my coverstitch machine's hem guide, sort of-- by the end I could hem both pairs of sleeves on the striped tops without missing any of the hem underneath, and by the white one I ALMOST hemmed the whole bottom consistently without missing. My thoughts on the pattern: I like the pattern as a basic, but the dimensions are a bit strange to me. I feel like the sleeves give a much looser, slouchy vibe than the entire rest of the shirt? Maybe I just feel weird about how tight it is on my boobs yet loose on my upper arms. The aesthetic just feels a bit mismatched. Also I can't figure out why the pattern tells you specifically NOT to use a serger to attach the mock neck piece and instead use a zig zag stitch on your machine because it would have "more stretch" that way. Absolutely no way would I have done that. If your serger has an upper looper converter, please look up the 3 thread super stretch stitch!!!! It's how I construct all my knit garments now tbh and is ESPECIALLY helpful for a tight neckline. I get that the pattern is giving advice for both home sewing machines and sergers alike which is great in terms of easily accessible sewing but like??? if you own a serger please use it to its fullest! That is my main critique for the Dawson pattern, ha. Anyway I'm excited to have new basics and to be using up this fabric! I wish I'd graded in the sleeves a little but hey, it is comfy anyway. #dawsontop #helensclosetdawsontop #knitsewing #sewingwithknits #sergersewing #handmadewardrobe

It’s been a month since I have sewn anything, and two months since I cut this out…a combo of little time, tiredness and not a lot of sewjo. I figured a knit top is a good way to get back into sewing, as it’s nice and quick. This is the Dawson top by Helen’s closet made out of the softest fabric. I’ll mostly be wearing it under my York Pinafores. Pattern: #dawsontop by @helens__closet Fabric: I think it’s interlock (?) and it’s from @weftandwarpfabrics and is so nice and soft to wear Notions: label by @kylieandthemachine

Starting work on another Dawson t-shirt. It's been so hot that I've not been able to sew much the past few days, so this is a nice quick project to sew ☀️😎 . #helensclosetdawsontop #helenscloset #dawsontop . . . #sewing #sewingmachine #sewist #sewistsofinstagram #imakemyownclothes #sewingpattern #memade #memadeeveryday #homemade #handmade #garment #garmentmaking#ilovesewing #memadewardrobe #dressmakers #sew #sewingmakesmehappy #iwearwhatisew

Merino base layer for cold-weather running. I used merino fabric from @oursocialfabric and the #helensclosetdawsontop pattern. Love these labels though! #helensclosetpatterns #oursocialfabric #fabric #merinofabric #sewingforrunning #sewingforme #sewingforever #sewsewsew #sewersgonnasew

Finally I’m joining in with the #magamsewalong with a tee that I made in early December. This is the @helens__closet Dawson Tee, with the round neck, and elbow length sleeves. I can’t remember where I bought the fabric, and I can’t decide whether the print is cotton bolls or peony buds, but it’s very pretty nonetheless. I’m halfway through sewing a #dopaminedressing sweatshirt, but my machine has decided it’s poorly and needs some more qualified attention than I can give it, so that will have to wait! @suestoney @sewing_in_spain @hportemanteau #helensclosetdawsontop #helensclosetpatterns #magamsewalong #magamsewalongdopaminedecember #imakemyclothes #isewmyclothes #handmadeclothes #memadeeveryday #memadetshirt

A little aerial construction site photoshoot… of my new #dawsontop from @helens__closet ! My plants are safe inside now as it’s become too cold, unfortunately. I will have to do the same soon! Made a size 16 graded to a 20 at waist and hips. And that’s all the mods! It does fit like a dream, I especially like the open neck and half sleeves. It is a bit too long, but at the same time it doesn’t really bother me. This is one of my favourite colours, a little peachy pink, as you can see with my matching shoes. This pattern is officially a TNT! #helensclosetdawsontop #dawsontopseated #sewnshownseated #styledseated #disabledmaker #sewdisabled

This outfit features two fabrics I'm a little obsessed with. The top is the Dawson top (scoop neck view) from @helens__closet using jersey from @neridahansenfabrics designed by @lisacongdon. I love Lisa congdons work so Its like a little treat to wear it around. The pants are made using the stretch cotton twill in the shade ocean which I purchased from @formerlatterfabrics. It wears so well! The wrinkles in this photo are from a day of desk sitting, which usually looks much worse with other fabrics. It has just the right amount of stretch to be extremely comfy but not overly elastic. The colour is what convinced me to impulsively buy it when I saw it, and I have zero regrets. Pattern is the flint pants from @megannielsenpatterns with some volume taken out of the legs since this isn't flowy fabric. #helenscloset #helensclosetpatterns #helensclosetdawsontop #dawsontop #mnflint #lisacongdon #neridahansenfabrics #formerlatterfabrics

Helen's closet is doing some heavy lifting on my 2022 sew-goal to get more comfortable sewing knit fabric. First with the avery leggings and now with the Dawson top. The top I made uses the long sleeve, mock neck, d cup pattern variations. I cut a size 16 with slight grading to 18 at the hips. I love the fit right of the pattern with no extra adjustments which is always so rare! I've tried a lot of free t-shirt sewing patterns but it's totally worth it to have bought this one really good pattern. Can't wait to make the other options with lots of different fabrics. I may also hack it into a sweater dress soon. #helensclosetpatterns #helenscloset #dawsontop #helensclosetdawsontop #memadewardrobe #sewyeg

Loved and creased, these are #helensclosetbrooksjeans denim shorts. I had a little accident with the hammer and put a hole in them right at the finish line so they’ve already been patched up. Worn with my mesh #helensclosetdawsontop and self-drafted bra. #sewistsofinstagram

Sunny day off with no plans. I finally decided to photograph a few of the things I’ve made in the last year or so. This is a #swshenrietta skirt in natural linen. I love it so much I made another one in denim. On the top half is a #helensclosetdawsontop in a sheer mesh. This mesh was a nightmare to work with but I’m glad I persevered. The only mod I made to the pattern was to make the sleeves 3/4 length and leave them un-hemmed for a clean look. Over my Dawson tee I’m wearing a #fortivtuliptop in black twill. #sewistofinstagram

I have been in my Wool Era for a while, and it’s a lot funner than I expected. This #novacoat from @papercutpatterns is a perfect example: it turned out not at all like I pictured, thanks to a last-minute fabric substitution, but it’s EVEN BETTER than I dreamed. These photos are on the balcony of a teensy hotel at the intersection of the Alfama and Mouraria neighborhoods in Lisbon, and the wool+lining of the Nova made a chic, easy coat to wear for travel. I threw it on over a pair of jeans plus a #helensclosetdawsontop for our first day in Portugal, and it made me feel like I hadn’t just stepped off eight hours of air travel. I made a straight size 3 with no adjustments. Main fabric is a wool tweed from @denverfabrics lined with my all-time favorite Bemberg rayon. There’s no interlining, but there could be, and I found this pattern to be easy to follow and an excellent skill builder for working with full linings. If you’re interested in sewing more wool, or making this project, come play with us at The League! @leagueofdressmakers We are near the end of a six part video series building our wool sewing skills, which includes a full step-by-step sewalong for the Nova Coat. We would love to play with you as we get closer to our 2025 Tournament Of Sewing!! ##sewingtechnique #sewingskills #sewing #sewingcommunity #sewingpattern #sewinginspiration #growyoursewing #beginnersewing #intermediatesewing #learntosew #howtosewclothes #handmadewardrobe #sewyourownclothes #sewover50

On Mother's Day, my post had to be about my lovely Mum. When you're only 4' 6" and a very petite size, it is increasingly difficult to find any clothes that fit. Add to this dexterity problems with her arm following a bad fall last year and Rheumatoid Arthritis, clothes need to be easy pull on with no fussy zips, buttons or other fixings. I made her this top as part of her Mother's Day gift. At nearly 86, she tells me she doesn't need anything, so I've taken to sewing for her. When I was growing up, I always remember my Mum sewing. She would always buy a little extra dress fabric so that she could make something for me out of the remnants of her dress fabric. I've made her various t-shirts, tunics, dresses and elastic waist trousers. My Mum is loving her new wardrobe of handmade clothes and I get immense pleasure out of sewing for her. This is the Helen's Closet Dawson Top. I have reduced the length of the sleeves, but added to the tops body length so that my Mum can wear this over leggings and elastic waist trousers. The fabric is a floral cotton spandex jersey, purchased from my local Hobbycraft store. #handmade #sewing ##helenscloset #helensclosetdawsontop #hobbycraft #makewithhobbycraft #homesewing #memadewardrobe #imakemyownclothes #memade #sewingismypassion ##jukiclub ##franklinscolchester ##jukisewing

I made the #helensclosetdawsontop and I am in love! It was so simple to make and she has great instructions for sewing with knits. And I used the prettiest knit jersey from #blackbirdfabrics #helensclosetpatterns #dawsontop #bfjersey #bfprints

Sparkly void shirt! I couldn't resist this velvet sequin fabric i saw at the store this past weekend. I made this using the @helens__closet Dawson pattern. It really looks even better in motion since the sequins lay unevenly on the velvet so it catches light at every angle. I bought enough that a skirt in the same fabric is in the works. I am a lazy sequin sewist and just go directly over the sequins with a beefy needle rather than picking them out of the seam allowances. If I go slow and trim before sewing over established seams it's totally fine! #helenscloset #sequintop #memadewardrobe #helensclosetdawsontop #dawsontop